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18.04.2012 - DIY camera: Noise handling
Making the sensor head
We are going to do some serious amplification to get images out of a pinhole-focused light spread over a good portion of a square meter.
In fact, it's sub-picoampere current sensing for the pinhole, and nanoamperes if you put a lens in it.
So, if you put the amplifier on the side, and lead a wire to the PD on the caret, like i tried initially:
Then all you will get is noise, noise, noise.
There are two parts to this current noise.
1. The mains hum and other external EMF.
2. The stepper motors noise and other internal EMF.
First is solved by wrapping the box into tin foil, and connecting that to the common ground inside.
The second would require additional shielding at the scan head itself and some careful design of the scan system.
Same scene above, with the amplifier mounted at the caret like so:
Would look much better, but still with a lot of noise:
With the amp on the caret and shielded on it's own, the noise would go down to almost nothing.
Shown here with InAs photodiode. The piece on the right is the 6.6GOhm resistor assembly for silicon photodiodes.
To be connected in place of the single tiny resistor the InAs uses.
The shielding should connect to the ground near the PD.
The only holes there should be are the PD and the power/signal wire.
With all that the current noise table goes below my best sensitvity, allowing for much clearer images even indoors.
But if you look closer, you'll see a ripple - that's likely voltage noise on the signal wire. A minor problem yet to be solved.
That was all concerning general noise reduction, silicon photodiodes and pinhole optics (for UV down to NIR).
MWIR and InAs photodiodes have their own unique problems.
About them, to be continued.
(Note: Much better write-up of this is now available at Ribbonfarm: https://www.ribbonfarm.com/2016/05/12/artem-vs-predator/)
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Comments:
I know I'm very late to this party, but have to ask...What your final transimpedance amp. consisted of, as far as components, and your final favorite photodiode, used? 20.03.2019 01:43 - Roddy |
I'm not sure which resistor are you talking about.
If it's the one in the perfboard photos, then this is so out of date as to be irrelevant. 18.04.2015 01:15 - Artlav |
Hello again!
I see that you have used a 20k Ohms resistor in your circuit, what capacitor did you used to go with it? 14.04.2015 16:16 - Alejandro |
Two columns in one direction align naturally, as long as the mechanics aren't too loose.
Two adjacent columns going in opposite directions, however, are still an open problem.
It's repeatable enough to align the central parts by a fixed offset in post-processing, but there are edges where things get non-linear. I'm thinking of making a sort of a correction table, by taking a picture of a grid.
If that's what you were asking. 09.02.2015 09:56 - Artlav |
You made a great system. I Working on a same concept by moving the sensor with servos.
I have a question, How did you manage to rectify the offset of a pixel column to another?
Have A nice day! 09.02.2015 03:26 - Chyneuze |
The noise is RF in origin - what helped is wrapping the box in grounded foil, eliminating ground loops and putting the sensor in a shielded box of it's own.
Light/reflection noise is not something i noticed or encountered, and painting it black will be tricky, since many "black" paints turn bright white in NIR. I'm not immediately aware of any paint that would be uniformly black across the entire spectral range of that camera.
The code is too simple to be worth posting - drive the steppers, sense the light, write to the card. All three are there in Arduino's set of demos. 08.02.2015 23:53 - Artlav |
I get what you are saying in regards to electrical noise
If you make the inside of your box matte black, like all cameras are, you will notice a big difference in noise level and contrast.
I'm working on one of these right now, the initial test camera obscuras I've built work WAY better when you all the internal surfaces black.
Great project!
Will you be posting your code??? 07.02.2015 14:35 - cyberteque |
@j: Not really. The sapphire window, peltier stabilised 3400nm one was the most expensive at about $57 equivalent.
@Andre: They would be waaay too large. Sensor size is pixel size - the larger the sensor, the lower the resolution is. 22.01.2015 22:34 - Artlav |
Photodiodes from IBSG...that could not had been cheap. 22.01.2015 22:04 - j |
Hi, just a thought but have you tried using a solar cell as a sensor?
The ones used on solar lamps work reasonably well, or you could also harvest them from old photoelectric smoke alarms.
I found two nice 7mm2 diodes this way, good for several mA when put next to a TV remote. 22.01.2015 21:50 - Andre |
@vimtut0r: I did, back in 2013 (the pages are quite a bit out of date). Simplifies the code a lot, makes the image somewhat cleaner.
@The Lightning Stalker: Pieces of coloured glass, "hot mirror" window from a DSLR, UV filter glass, polished piece of silicon, and several others. 22.01.2015 13:04 - Artlav |
Very cool project!
Why don't you just place an ATTiny or something similiar right next to the OpAmp to reduce the signal length? 22.01.2015 12:09 - vimtut0r |
What filters are you using for wavelength selectivity? 22.01.2015 04:44 - The Lightning Stalker |
Well done!! 06.09.2014 22:58-nixxon
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Thanks a lot! Ill let you know if it worked for me 26.08.2014 01:48-Alejandro
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Hi. AD820 for the pre-rebuild stuff. AD8605 for the latest version. In my case i needed to measure sub-pA currents, thus the need for very low-offset op-amp. 20.08.2014 11:30-Artlav
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Which op amp did you used? Im trying to build a green index sensor! 14.08.2014 01:14-Alejandro
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